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The Beams

One of the most important things is to start with a strong mould that can last through 4 beams. The beam mould was made from plywood. Because we wanted minimum work to finish the beams before painting we painted the mould with high build epoxy primer and 2 coats of Jotun Imperite. This paint gives a hard shiny surface to the beams with little work required to finish the beams. It has a smooth shiny surface and the beam was easy to remove. The mould was waxed and polished about 5 times initially and once between mouldings. Itís best to use soft wax over resin covered plywood but a hard wax over the painted mould worked well.

resin beam

The plywood mould. Mould is painted with high build primer

beam beam

Mould painted with 2 coats of 2 pot polyurethane. The beam mould was waxed and plasticine was added in the corners to make a smooth easy fillet. Gel coat applied. Then the layers of glass were added using polyester laminating resin. By using unwaxed resin there is plenty of time to add each layer.After all the layers are added the beam is removed from the mould and the plasticine cleaned off.

beam beam

The beams on the Scarab 32 are similar to the beams on most of Ray's other designs. These beams were built using polyester laminating (unwaxed) resin. These beams are designed to be built by homebuilders with a minimum of extra equipment.
The folding mechanism is housed inside the top hat section and connected to beam stubs extending from the main hull.

beam

To avoid air bubbles on the surace of the beam we used gelcoat even though we were going to paint the beams. After the beams were removed from the mould the edges of the flanges were trimmed back using a diamond studded disc in an angle grinder.
The beams were not built in single step. As the resin hardens the heat produced would distort the final beam and we find it is better to spread the job over several days.